Here Comes the Sun

I must confess, I did not want to take many photos on this trip to Rome. I did not want to be married to the camera, so I made a promise to take fewer photos….this was a promise I found it impossible to keep as Rome was even more captivating than ever, and it begged to have its photo taken…again and again.

The Vatican literally shone on my recent visit there.

It was a rare day because there were relatively few people plus great weather…a smaller crowd of folks whose only intention seemed to linger in the warmth of the sun. Even the only bridal couple on the square was content to lean back and sun bathe instead of vying for posing space.

This visit ended with a stroll down Via della Conciliazione. The street that connects Saint Peter’s Square to the Castle Sant’ Angelo. This street is filled with shops and flats and souvenir vendors, and if you turn around, it affords the most amazing view of the Basilica ever!!!

Roman fountains were also eager to have their photos taken. There are so many of them that rain or shine, they are compelling subjects…especially when cute dogs decide to get in on the act. This guy is taking a drink from the pool of one of the city’s many Bernini fountains….

while this cutie is sitting on the step of the same fountain.

And the Trevi never disappoints.

The Colosseum still tells its stories, a monument to ancient architecture and the souls that were lost there. It is estimated that as many as 400,000 souls perished in the Colosseum over the 350 or so years it was in use.

It could hold 50,000 to 80,000 spectators….and admission was free…citizens had assigned entrances…AMAZING!!!!!

The excitement level of the crowds had no be nothing short of phenomenal. The lower level could even be flooded to re-enact battles that had been fought on water.

It is just a few steps from the Colosseum to the political and religious heart of Rome.

Caesar walked here, and according to legend,

his funeral was held here as well.

We wondered if Caesar had as many dining choices as we did. At times, it became almost impossible for choices to be made. You might imagine that having traveling companions who deal with gluten intolerance would be difficult in a country that lives on bread and pasta, but NOT AT ALL!!! Here’s a sample of what Sarah and Ashleigh and the internet found hiding in plain sight.

These goodies are from a little bakery called Sicilian Bakery and Cafe located at Via di Porta Cavalleggeri, 00165 Roma RM. They only serve gluten free treats.

Finding gluten free pasta was not too much of a challenge, and the bonus ….the BONUS was these places were the simple, uncomplicated places…the places where locals frequent…perfect for Unseasoned Travelers on a junket. For instance, Cimarra 4 Pizzaria & Cocktail serves tasty gluten free pizza and pasta….YES…we tried them both.

Voglia di Pizza, also in Rome, was so good that we ate there twice. Need I say, the delightful satisfaction shows in diners’ expressions.

Eating, although grand, did not overshadow visiting the beautiful art collection at the Borghese Gallery and Museum. I cannot imagine why the Borghese is not everyone’s favorite gathering of art pieces especially since it is home to so many remarkable pieces of art. If you are a Caravaggio fan, there is a wealth of pieces to enjoy….like these two, thought to be self- portraits of the artist.

There is a wonderful Raphael to admire.

But my favorites are the sculptures by Bernini. The artist tells marvelous stories in stone. This is Bernini’s “David.” Here, this “David” is putting all of his strength into throwing the stone at Goliath. You can see the power that Bernini puts into David’s body and the determination that he places in his face. This David is so intense; he’s even biting his lip. Bernini uses his own face for the face of David, so we get a selfie of the artist, himself. Amazing!!!

With “Apollo and Daphne,” Bernini tells the myth of the unwanted attention of the god Apollo toward the nymph, Daphne. Apollo chases Daphne, but at the moment he captures her, she begins to turn into a tree. Looking at Daphne’s face, you can almost hear the fearful cry coming from her mouth, and if you look at her feet, you can see her toenails turning to tree roots.

Bernini also tells the story of Hades and Persephone in a magnificent sculpture. The sculpture shows Hades capturing Persephone and taking her to the Underworld. Bernini makes the marble become flesh in the powerful intensity of the god’s muscular legs to the grasp of his fingers that leave deep impressions on Persephone’s tender flesh.

Experiencing Bernini in the warm, dry setting of the Borghese Museum and Gallery is so wonderful, but seeing Bernini outside is fabulous also…even in the middle of one of Rome’s drenching downpours. The Piazza Novana is home to Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, a really large fountain built in 1648. So, this was a magical last night in Rome...cold, dark, rain, clouds and Bernini….

And to make things even more magical, a street musician was playing this catchy tune about the sun….how ironic!!! Have a listen….

A little wet, but sending you some sun,

The Unseasoned Traveler